"content": {
        "1": "CLIPPER CUTTING A guide for cutting highly-textured hair \f",
        "2": "\f",
        "3": "1 Welcome to Clipper Cutting 301! Clipper Cutting 301 is the next book in our clipper cutting series, taking an in-depth look at cutting highly-textured hair. This new guide draws on the expertise of Andis\u2019 team of master barbers to provide you with insights on best cutting practices and techniques for popular fade styles as well as custom cuts. Clipper Cutting 301 features 12 individual styles with easy-to-follow instructions on how to create them using Andis\u00ae clippers and trimmers. Don\u2019t forget that on master-barberschool.com we also have step-by-step companion videos that are completely free! Why? We want you to learn the fine art of clipper cutting so that you can continue to grow and be successful as a hair professional! Matthew K. Andis President \f",
        "4": "2 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Table of contents Section 1 Textured Hair Types & Tools Density................................................................4 Curl Pattern.........................................................5 Porosity...............................................................6 Elasticity..............................................................7 Understanding Cutting Tools..............................8 Tool Maintenance.............................................14 Section 2 Fades Bald Fade with Line-up.....................................18 Mid-Fade..........................................................22 Mid-Fade with Design......................................26 Low Fade..........................................................30 Burst Fade with Design.....................................32 Mohawk Fade...................................................36 Skin Fade with Surgical Part..............................38 Section 3 Custom Cuts Hi-Top...............................................................44 Sculptured Hi-Top.............................................46 Fauxhawk Sunburst...........................................50 The Disconnect.................................................54 Buzz Cut............................................................58 \f",
        "5": "Section 1 Textured hair types & tools \f",
        "6": "\f",
        "7": "3 SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 ANALYZING HAIR TYPES Why Knowing Hair Type Matters In Clipper Cutting 201, we talked a lot about letting head shape and proportion help determine what tools and cutting techniques to use. In this volume, we are diving even deeper to give you a more complete understanding of the importance that hair type has in the overall process. Determining hair type will help you figure out how to handle, cut and style hair more effectively. This involves understanding the qualities of hair including density, curl pattern, porosity and elasticity. You will note that these all go hand in hand. It is important to consider all aspects of the client\u2019s hair when deciding what tools and cutting techniques to use. The hair shaft is composed of three layers: Cuticle \u2013 outermost part of the hair shaft comprised of overlapping layers of dead cells forming scales, giving the hair strength and protection. Medulla \u2013 innermost layer that is only present in large, thick hairs. Cortex \u2013 between the hair cuticle and medulla and is the thickest layer. It contains most of the hair\u2019s pigment, giving it its color. cuticle cuticle cortex medulla cortex medulla \f",
        "8": "4 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Density Hair density refers to the number of strands on your head which can be measured by counting how many can be found in one square inch of your scalp. This is most often referred to as the overall \u201cthickness\u201d of someone\u2019s hair. Knowing the density of your client\u2019s hair will help you select the proper shape and style as well as the best cutting techniques and tools to use. The average person has about 2,200 strands per square inch on his or her scalp. To quickly determine your client\u2019s hair density, do not comb or part the hair, simply let it fall naturally and ask yourself, \u201cHow much scalp can I see?\u201d If you can clearly see some scalp without moving any hair, then your client has low density. If you can slightly see scalp with little effort, then they most likely have medium density. And if you cannot see any scalp at all, then they have high density hair. Higher density hair will require a more powerful tool like a rotary motor clipper, whereas lower density hair will cut better with either a magnetic or pivot motor clipper. \f",
        "9": "5 Curl Pattern While curl type may be easy to determine, figuring out what length the hair should be cut to ensure it lays down properly can be tricky. Generally, tighter curl patterns will respond better to shorter blade or attachment lengths, while looser variations work better with longer cutting lengths. It is also important to pay attention to curl pattern to discern if you should be cutting with or against the grain. For example, if your desired outcome is for the hair to lay flat, then 4C curl patterns (see diagram below) respond best to being cut with the grain using a #1 blade on a detachable blade clipper. Meanwhile, a looser 2A pattern responds better to being cut with the grain and a #2 blade if the hair is dense, or a longer #3-1\/2 blade if the hair is thin. Credit: NaturallyCurly.com Source: www.naturallycurly.com\/hair-types SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 1 2A 2B 2C 3A 3B 3C 4A 4B 4C \f",
        "10": "6 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Porosity Porosity refers to the hair\u2019s ability to absorb and retain moisture and is usually a genetic characteristic, although it can be affected by chemical treatments or heat processing on the hair. There are three levels of porosity: low, medium and high. Low Porosity \u2013 has a tightly bound cuticle and is generally considered to be healthy. The hair is usually very shiny when dark in color. This type of hair will repel moisture and most products since the cortex is hard to penetrate. Medium Porosity \u2013 generally requires the least amount of maintenance because the cuticle is more loose, allowing moisture to flow in and out. High Porosity \u2013 Usually there are holes in the cuticle layer resulting in too much moisture retained in the hair, causing it to frizz and tangle. Low Porosity Medium Porosity High Porosity \f",
        "11": "7 When a client has hair with a low porosity level, it would be best to groom their hair in a way that requires less product. One way would be air forming with a hair dryer, then using a holding spray to lock in that style. Hair with a medium porosity level can usually be styled easily and will show colors best. For hair with a high porosity level, it\u2019s best to avoid haircuts and styles that rely on product to shape it. These hair types usually are most manageable after shampooing and conditioning, then using a leave-in conditioner to help increase the shine and bounce of the hair. Elasticity Elasticity is the measurement of how much hair will stretch. When hair is healthy, it will usually stretch 50% when wet and 20% when dry. Elasticity is rated as low, medium or high. The healthier the hair, the more shine, bounce and definition the curl pattern will have. Elasticity makes it possible to give your client the best hairstyle that will continue to look good after they leave your barbershop or salon. Hair with medium or high elasticity is generally easy to style, whereas hair with low elasticity may prove more challenging. If your client has a curl pattern that is between 3a and 4c, and they want to keep their hair longer, it is important to first determine the level of elasticity. If the hair has a low level of elasticity it may break off when either combed out or pulled because it will be brittle. If the hair has medium elasticity, it will take rigorous combing or pulling for it to break off and not return to its original shape. When the level of elasticity is high, it will be full of bounce and will have a highly defined curl pattern. It is important to note that if the hair has a low or medium level of elasticity, you\u2019ll want to recommend protein strengthening products and leave-in conditioners to aid in providing healthy hair, which over time will make it easier to cut and style. SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 \f",
        "12": "8 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Understanding CUTTING TOOLS CLIPPERS & TRIMMERS Generally, electric clippers and trimmers are the preferred tool in men\u2019s grooming because they allow the user to cut closer with more speed. In Clipper Cutting 101 we discussed the different motor types and why you would choose one over the other. Here\u2019s a quick re-cap: Motor Types There are three basic types of clippers, identified by the motor powering them: Rotary, Magnetic, Pivot. Each one has its own unique benefits and you may choose to include several in your toolkit to complement the varied needs of your customers. \f",
        "13": "9 SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 Rotary Motor Clippers These motors have high power and medium blade speed. Their balance between power, speed, size and weight makes them extremely versatile and perfect for high-volume, heavy-duty cutting. In addition, rotary motors cut all types of hair, wet or dry. They are also the only motor available with multiple speeds. Examples would be the Andis Supra ZR\u00ae and Supra ZR II clippers. Brushless Rotary \u2013 Brushless rotary motors deliver constant power and torque. They last longer than standard rotary motors. Magnetic Motor Clippers These motors have reliable power and high blade speed. Because of this high speed, smooth cuts on dry, light textured hair are best achieved with magnetic motor clippers. Less moving parts make these motors simple, reliable and the longest lasting of all the motors. Examples are the Andis Master\u00ae , ProAlloy\u00ae and Envy\u00ae clippers. Pivot Motor Clippers These motors have high power and lower blade speed, which make them a good choice for students or less experienced clipper cutters. While pivot motors have a lower blade speed than magnetic motors, they are twice as powerful making them ideal for cutting thick, coarse hair. They are also whisper quiet, cool running and long lasting. Examples include the Andis Speedmaster\u00ae II and the Pivot Motor Combo. \f",
        "14": "10 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae It is important to consider your client\u2019s hair type for the desired haircut as this will determine which tools and techniques you use. Adjustable blade tools may come equipped with attachment combs and detachable blade tools might come with one or two blades as well. Both types deliver different benefits for the user. Adjustable Blade Clipper You will know your tool is an adjustable blade clipper based on the lever on the side that moves the blade open and closed. Generally, when the blade is closed (lever up) it will be in the #000 position and when it is open (lever down) it is in the #1 position. When you purchase an adjustable blade clipper, cutting lengths will be noted on the package, and the clipping guide (shown below) can be found in the Use & Care pamphlet for each clipper. This is important because varying the blade length will change the cutting length of the attachment comb. CLIPPING GUIDE Description Cutting Direction Approximate Length of Cut Blade set to shortest cut Blade set to longest cut Standard Andis Blade With hair grain Against hair grain 1\/16\" (1.6 mm) 1\/32\" (0.8 mm) 3\/16\" (4.8 mm) 1\/8\" (3.2 mm) 1\/16\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 3\/16\" (4.8 mm) 3\/32\" (2.4 mm) 5\/16\" (7.9 mm) 5\/32\" (4.0 mm) 1\/8\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 1\/4\" (6.4 mm) 1\/8\" (3.2 mm) 3\/8\" (9.5 mm) 1\/4\" (6.4 mm) 1\/4\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 3\/8\" (9.5 mm) 1\/4\" (6.4 mm) 1\/2\" (12.7 mm) 3\/8\" (9.5 mm) 3\/8\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 1\/2\" (12.7 mm) 3\/8\" (9.5 mm) 5\/8\" (15.9 mm) 1\/2\" (12.7 mm) 1\/2\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 5\/8\" (15.9 mm) 1\/2\" (12.7 mm) 7\/8\" (22.2 mm) 5\/8\" (15.9 mm) 3\/4\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 7\/8\" (22.2 mm) 3\/4\" (19.0 mm) 1-1\/8\" (28.6 mm) 1\" (25.4 mm) 7\/8\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 1\" (25.4 mm) 7\/8\" (22.2 mm) 1-1\/4\" (31.8 mm) 1-1\/8\" (28.6 mm) 1\u201d Attachment Comb With hair grain Against hair grain 1-1\/8\" (28.6 mm) 1\" (25.4 mm) 1-3\/8\" (34.9 mm) 1-1\/4\" (31.8 mm) Blade length adjustment notches Blade adjustment lever \f",
        "15": "11 SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 There are five lever positions most often used with fading techniques. Clippers like the Andis Master have notches on the side to reference the exact position, however, other clipper brands may not have this. Attachment combs Attachment combs come in a variety of lengths and are most often used on adjustable blade clippers. The length noted on the attachment comb is the length of the hair left after using that comb on a #000 blade length. Many adjustable blade clippers come with a set of attachment combs, however, upgraded versions can be purchased when you become more confident using them. It is best to use these on clean, dry hair. With longer attachment comb lengths, you may need to repeat the cutting pass a couple of times to ensure the hair is evenly cut. It is generally recommended to start with the longer attachment combs and work your way down to shorter attachment combs for a more precise blend. Attachment combs are great for removing bulk quickly, while also ensuring your clients get a consistent cut length. Detachable blades An alternative to adjustable blade clippers are detachable blade clippers. These clippers provide you with the ability to change out the blade to a longer or shorter cutting length based on your needs. Detachable blades come in a variety of sizes and can provide more precise cutting when working with shorter styles like fades and tapers, because the blade is a fixed length. Generally speaking, a detachable blade will deliver a smoother, more finished cut in one pass than a clipper with an attachment comb would. This is why many high volume clipper cutters choose this design to increase efficiency. It is important to note that when applying a different detachable blade to your clipper, to have the clipper on to ensure the blade drive engages properly. \f",
        "16": "12 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae There are four main parts of every clipper and trimmer blade: Cutter Blade The part that moves back and forth and cuts the hair. Because the cutter blade is driven directly from the motor and blade drive, it will typically move side-to-side, parallel to the feeder blade. It is important to keep the blade sharp to properly cut the hair. Sometimes this is referred to as the \u201cupper\u201d blade. Feeder Blade The part on the outside of the cutter blade that picks up the hair and \u201cfeeds\u201d it in. On adjustable blade tools, the feeder blade moves forward-to-back to change the overall cut length. The length of the feeder blade generally adjusts the length of hair that remains on the head. Some trimmers will have very shallow teeth like the Andis T-Outliner\u00ae , because they are not designed to feed large amounts of hair. Instead, they are designed to create sharp, crisp lines around the perimeter. Sometimes this is referred to as the \u201clower\u201d blade. When the upper and lower blades rub against each other it will create friction, which is why applying oil after every use is so critical. Heel The large flat portion of the blade is commonly referred to as the heel or ramp. Most blades have two main areas, the heel and the toe. Generally, the heel is what is placed directly on the scalp when fading or on the comb when using the clipper-over-comb technique. Cutter Blade (upper) Heel Toe Feeder Blade (lower) \f",
        "17": "13 SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 Toe The smaller portion that encompasses the teeth of the feeder blade. This is the area the hair falls into when cutting. It can be used with certain techniques to eliminate dark spots within the fade blend. Straight Razors & Electric Shavers Used primarily for facial grooming and cleanup, straight razors and electric shavers provide the closest, smoothest edges and trims. Straight razors can be used to sharpen the outline or designs within a haircut. Before cutting, dampen the hair to make it easier to cut and to help avoid razor burn. Pull the skin taught to lift the hair off the scalp for a closer shave. In most states, using a straight razor requires a Barber\u2019s License. A good alternative to achieve an ultra-smooth, clean finish is to use an electric foil shaver, such as the Andis ProFoil\u00ae Lithium shaver, after using a close-cutting trimmer. Tips: \u2022 \u0007 A T-blade trimmer, such as the T-Outliner, can have its blades adjusted to cut nearly as close as a straight razor but without the mess. This is called \u201czero-gapping\u201d the blade. Some adjustable clipper blades may also be zero-gapped. \u2022 \u0007 An electric shaver like the Andis ProFoil is great to use on the excess hair around the nape, cheeks and neck under the chin to achieve an ultra-smooth finish. \u2022 \u0007 In most states you will need a Barber\u2019s License to use a straight razor so make sure to check with your State Board. If you are unable to use one, the Andis ProFoil Shaver is an excellent alternative to achieve the ultra-smooth, razor-like finish. \f",
        "18": "14 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Tool Maintenance Just as any musical instrument or sports equipment needs proper maintenance to operate at peak performance, the same is true for your haircutting tools. A common mistake made by professionals new to clipper cutting is to neglect tool maintenance. Improper maintenance can lead to dull blades, sluggish performance and ultimately a shutdown of the tool itself. Beyond poor performance, there are also potential health risks if tools are not disinfected properly. Basic Cleaning 1. \u0007 Turn off the tool. Clean out loose debris with a blade brush or use Andis Dry Care\u00ae with air concentrator to blow hair particles from tight spaces. 2. \u0007 Turn tool on and point the blade down. Use Andis Cool Care Plus\u00ae spray to clean and cool the blade. Turn off tool. Wipe off residue. 3. \u0007 Turn on the tool. With the blade pointing down, apply 5 drops of Andis Blade Oil to the blade: Place 3 drops across the front teeth and 1 drop at each inside rear corner of the blade. Slightly tilt the clipper or trimmer to the side, allowing the oil to run off onto a towel. Run the clipper for approximately 10 seconds. Turn off and wipe off any remaining oil. Tips: \u2022 \u0007 If you continue to notice a decrease in performance after cleaning and oiling, it may be time to replace your blade. \u2022 \u0007 You can clean your Andis ProFoil Shaver too! Simply remove the head attachment and use your Dry Care to eliminate hair. Then spray foils with your Cool Care to disinfect. \f",
        "19": "15 Blade Disinfection 1. \u0007 To disinfect either fixed or detachable clipper blades, first follow the basic cleaning steps on previous page. 2. \u0007 Next, spray the blade surfaces with Andis Cool Care Plus or Blade Care Plus\u00ae until the entire blade is wet. Let sit for 10 minutes or dip your blade into Blade Care Plus solution for 10 seconds. 3. Wipe off residue. Andis Cool Care Plus Spray is an effective germicidal that kills Staphylococcus aureus, Salmonella enterica, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Streptococcus pyogenes, Mycobacterium bovis (BCG) and Vancomycin Resistant, Enterococcus faecalis (VRE). It also kills viruses and fungi on hard, nonporous inanimate surfaces. Viruses: Influenza A, Influenza B, Herpes Simplex Type 1 and Herpes Simplex Type 2 Fungi: Tricophyton mentagrophytes SECTION 1 TEXTURED HAIR TYPES & TOOLS 1 \f",
        "20": "16 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Highly textured hair Traditionally, the phrase \u201chighly textured\u201d refers to hair with medium to heavy curl patterns. When working with highly textured hair, there are a few points to take note of. Make sure to evaluate the tightness of the curl and the overall health of the hair, as this can impact the end result. Fading When working with aggressively short shapes, it is crucial to give a proper consultation and check for any moles or abrasions before you begin cutting. Start on one side and move all the way around the head to the other for consistency. Cut against the grain for shorter lengths and with the grain for longer lengths. If you plan to leave the top longer, use a pick to loosen the curl and allow the hair to stand up. Then, utilize the free-hand technique and step away periodically to check for balance. If you plan to keep the tight curl or wave, brush the hair going with the grain to maintain the growth pattern. Edge Ups or Line Work It\u2019s important to first check that your trimmer blade is set properly \u2013 zero-gap it if needed. It is best to create the line-up after the haircut is complete so you can clearly see where you are working. When working along the front hairline, start in the center of the forehead and work your way to either corner to ensure balance. To create a true 90-degree angle, use just the corner of the blade to create a nice, sharp edge. Use light pressure so you don\u2019t cut or irritate the skin. Use your mirror to check for balance periodically. \f",
        "21": "Section 2 Fades \f",
        "22": "Master\u00ae Clipper #01557 Fade Master\u00ae Clipper #01690 Fade Clipper #66245 T-Outliner\u00ae Trimmer #04710 Supra ZR\u00ae Clipper #79000 ProFoil\u00ae Shaver #17150 Slimline\u00ae Pro Li Trimmer #32400 Cordless Envy\u00ae Li Clipper #73000 ProAlloy\u00ae Clipper #69100 Adjustable Blade Clippers* Detachable Blade Clipper* Shaving* Trimmers* *These tools were used in the Fades section, but you could use another comparable Andis tool to achieve the same look. For example, you could use the new Cordless T-Outliner Li trimmer instead of the original T-Outliner trimmer. \f",
        "23": "17 SECTION 2 FADES 2 17 Bald Fade with Line-up Low Fade Skin Fade with Surgical Part Mid Fade Burst Fade with Design Mid Fade with Design Mohawk Fade \f",
        "24": "18 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Comb through the hair, checking for the hair growth pattern and looking for moles and abrasions. Then, use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with the blade open and the #1 attachment comb to cut the overall length, working with the grain. Switch tools to an Andis fade blade adjustable clipper with the blade closed. Start your initial guide at the center of the nape cutting up to the occipital bone. Continue cutting to the right temple and then to the left. Starting at the right temple, use an Andis T-blade trimmer to create the \u201cbald\u201d portion just under the initial guide working your way around to the left temple. 1 2 3 Bald fade with line-up \f",
        "25": "19 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Switch back to the fade blade clipper with the blade open to create your next line. Start on the right side and work around to the left cutting 1\u201d above your initial guide. Switch to an adjustable blade clipper and repeat with the blade closed using a quick c-stroke motion to blend through your initial guide line. Using the #1 attachment comb with the blade closed, make a pass from the right side of the head to the left side from the parietal ridge downward. Cut with the grain of the hair. 4 5 6 \f",
        "26": "20 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Bald fade with line-up Next, open the blade and make a pass from the right side to the left side, going against the grain and holding the blade at a 45-degree angle, starting at your second line and traveling up to the parietal ridge. Use the T-blade trimmer to remove any remaining weight line. Start at the occipital bone and work towards either temple with a quick c-stroke motion. Use just the corner of the blade for more control. Use the adjustable blade clipper with the #0 attachment comb and the blade closed to trim the beard, beginning on the right side and moving around the chin to the left side. 7 8 9 \f",
        "27": "21 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Use the T-blade trimmer to create the sharp edge at the front hairline by starting in the center and cutting to either recession point with a gentle tap and pull motion. Use just the corner of the blade to line up around the beard and moustache perimeter. Use the Andis ProFoil Shaver on the neck under the chin, cheeks and the back of the neck for an ultra-smooth finish. 10 11 12 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "28": "22 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Starting at the right side of the head, use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with a #3 attachment comb and the blade closed to remove bulk towards the crown. Then work your way around the back of the head towards the parietal ridge. At the left side of the head, cut against the grain to balance the weight and begin to create the slope shape at the top of the head (you will add the hard part later). 1 2 3 Mid Fade \f",
        "29": "23 With the #1 attachment comb and the blade open, cut from the sideburn up into the temple. Then work around the head to the other side. Close the blade and cut slightly lower to fade. Use the #0 attachment comb with the blade closed and continue working lower on the head, finishing out the fade. 4 5 6 SECTION 2 FADES 2 \f",
        "30": "24 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Switch to the #2 attachment comb with the blade still closed and cut against the grain, from the back towards the front. Move to the front hairline and create the foundation shape. Switch to the #1 attachment comb to further define the shape. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to line up the perimeter, starting at the center of the front hairline and working your way to each corner. Clean up any facial hair as needed. Mid Fade 7 8 9 \f",
        "31": "25 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Begin the hard part from the front hairline working your way back towards the crown, stopping just behind the ear. Put in your rough draft first and go back as needed to widen and define. Use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with the blade closed and no attachment comb to finish sculpting the top and defining the slope shape. Make sure to eliminate all stray hairs. Apply product and style to finish. 10 11 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "32": "26 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Start at the left temple using an Andis adjustable blade clipper with the #1 attachment comb and the blade closed. Cut with the grain around the back of the head, staying below the occipital bone. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer and start your upper arc at the left temple. Gently place the blade against the scalp and start the first arc. Then, move to the back of the head and, with the trimmer off, place the blade against the head where you think the line should end. Once you have found the desired placement, turn the trimmer on and place the blade against the skin to create the end of the arc. 1 2 3 Mid-Fade with Design \f",
        "33": "27 Move back to the start of the arc at the left temple and continue towards the back of the head where you left off just behind the ear. Keep checking for accuracy as you connect the two lines. Create the second arc underneath the first by using the same process. Start at the temple, then move to the back to place the end point. Using the first arc as your guide, connect the two points creating the second arc. Use an Andis fade blade adjustable clipper with the blade open to fade below the lower line. Start at the back of the head, working up over the ear to the front. Then, close the blade halfway and repeat, working slightly lower. 4 5 6 SECTION 2 FADES 2 \f",
        "34": "28 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use the #2 attachment comb with the blade closed to remove more weight just above the top line; approximately 2-3 inches. Work in every direction to ensure an even cut. Next, use the #1 attachment comb and an open blade, and blend from the top arc up into the previously cut area. Then, close the blade and begin the fade in the section between the two arcs. Starting at the front hairline, cut between the lines to just above the ear using quick c-stroke motions. Then open the blade and cut against the grain over the same area to start smoothing out the transition. Next, close the blade and cut with the grain along the bottom of the section to blend. 7 8 9 Mid-Fade with Design \f",
        "35": "29 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Close the blade halfway, use the #0 attachment comb and continue fading in between the arcs at the temple area only. Remove the attachment comb and open the blade to complete the fade at the temple area. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to define the arcs. Then, use the ProFoil Shaver and smooth out the fade at the back of the neck on the left side. Next, repeat steps 1-11 on the other side, checking for balance often as you work. Use your T-blade trimmer to create your front line-up, starting at the center of the forehead and working your way to each corner. Line up the corner and connect to previously lined-up section at the temple. Use your mirror to check for balance. 10 11 12 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "36": "30 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Comb through the hair carefully on all sides to check for moles and abrasions. Use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with the #1 attachment comb and the blade open. Cut from the crown to the sides and the back, working with the grain. Remove the attachment comb and keep the blade open. Use quick c-stroke motions to cut from just in front of the ear up to the parietal, creating a slight angle to the front temple. If needed, cut using the clipper-over-comb technique to blend into the longer length. Repeat at the other temple. Close the blade and start fading, going against the grain at the nape using a c-stroke motion. Then, open the blade and cut 1\u201d higher up in the nape. 1 2 3 Low fade \f",
        "37": "31 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Apply the #0 attachment comb and with the blade closed, continue fading up to the occipital bone. Then, turn the clipper upside down to cut with the grain in the same area to ensure that the hair is evenly cut. Remove the attachment comb, open the blade halfway and continue cutting against the grain to fade out the weight line. Close the blade and cut clipper-over- comb to transition above the previously cut section. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to line up the perimeter. Start on the right side of the neck and travel upward behind and over the ear. Repeat on the opposite side. Finish by defining the front hairline. 4 5 6 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "38": "32 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with the #3 attachment comb and, with blade closed, cut against the grain up behind the ear towards the front. Remove the attachment comb, open the blade and cut slightly lower, blending up into the previously cut area and creating a half circle above the ear. Apply the #1 attachment comb and open the blade. Cut up into the half circle to begin enlarging the burst shape. Close the blade and fade over the previously cut area using a circular motion. 1 2 3 Burst Fade with Design \f",
        "39": "33 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Use the #0 attachment comb with the blade closed, and repeat step #3. Then remove the comb, open the blade and repeat steps 1-5 on the opposite side of the head. Use the #2 attachment comb with the blade closed and cut with the grain from the crown to the front. Then, cut against the grain from the temple towards the top. Use the #1 attachment comb with the blade closed and cut with the grain to smooth out the finish. 4 5 6 \f",
        "40": "34 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Switch to an Andis T-blade trimmer and line up the perimeter. Use the T-blade trimmer to add three lines within the sunburst fade. Perform with a tap and wiggle motion to create a crisp line. Switch to an adjustable blade clipper (blade closed) to freehand sculpt from the center front of the top of the haircut. Work your way towards the back, eliminating any stray hairs. Apply product and style to finish. 7 8 9 Burst Fade with Design Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "41": "35 SECTION 2 FADES 2 \f",
        "42": "36 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis fade blade adjustable clipper with the blade closed and #1 attachment comb. Starting at the right temple, cut upwards towards the parietal ridge. Now, open the blade and cut upwards at the back of the head. Remove the attachment comb and cut clipper-over-comb working up the right side of the head to create the mohawk shape. Repeat steps 1 & 3 on the opposite side of the head. 1 2 3 Mohawk Fade \f",
        "43": "37 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Switch to your Andis T-blade trimmer and define the perimeter. Line up the front hairline by starting in the center and working to each corner, checking for balance. Trim along the temples and enhance the curls with styling product to finish. 4 5 6 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "44": "38 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis detachable blade clipper and a #000 blade. Start cutting at the temple, working up towards the parietal and down around the back of the head to remove bulk. Switch to an Andis adjustable clipper with an open blade and blend from the temple up to the temple point. Open the blade halfway and cut slightly below the previously cut area. Close the blade and blend the bottom of the fade with quick c-stroke motions. 1 2 3 Skin Fade with Surgical Part \f",
        "45": "39 With a detachable blade clipper and the close-cutting Outliner detachable blade, cut up to the previously cut area to create the skin fade. Use the #2 attachment comb on an adjustable blade clipper with the blade closed and cut against the grain at the parietal. Switch to the #1 attachment comb with the blade closed and repeat slightly lower. Then open the blade and blend between the two sections. 4 5 6 SECTION 2 FADES 2 \f",
        "46": "40 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use the #0 attachment comb with the blade closed to finish out the blend. Switch to an Andis T-blade trimmer to line up the front hairline and clean up around the perimeter. Create the hard part by first placing in your rough draft line. Then, go back through to slightly widen and clarify, constantly checking your work as you go. 7 8 9 Skin Fade with Surgical Part \f",
        "47": "41 SECTION 2 FADES 2 Use an adjustable blade clipper with the blade closed to freehand sculpt the top of the haircut. Apply product and style to finish. 10 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "48": "42 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae CREATING CUSTOM LOOKS With men\u2019s grooming on the rise, more and more clients that sit in your chair will be looking for some sort of extra element in their cut. This is where having a proper consultation and asking all the right questions upfront will be crucial. You want the overall cut to be cohesive and not end up looking like you added something at the very end for a disjointed look. You can find more information on consultation in Clipper Cutting 101. Shape When creating custom looks for your clients, think about ways you can mix and match different elements of cuts from this within this book. Take note of the different tools used to create each look shown and make sure you have the right tool for the right look. It is very important to look at your client\u2019s head and face shape as well as their hair texture and lifestyle. You can find more information on head and face shape in Clipper Cutting 201. Cutting Designs Similar to line-ups, it is important to first check the setting of your trimmer blade and zero-gap it if it can be, as this will ensure the closest cut against the skin. Know where the design will start and where it will end. You can map out your rough draft pattern by using only the tip of the blade to create a thin line or shape. It is rare in designs that you will need to use the entire blade, so a trimmer with a \u201cT\u201d shaped blade will be the easiest to use. As you are creating your design, comb out the hair to keep your working area clean. Step back periodically and check the shape to make sure it is developing as expected. \f",
        "49": "Section 3 Custom Cuts \f",
        "50": "Master\u00ae Clipper #01557 Fade Clipper #66245 T-Outliner\u00ae Trimmer #04710 Supra ZR\u00ae Clipper #79000 ProFoil\u00ae Shaver #17150 Slimline\u00ae Pro Li Trimmer #32400 Superliner Trimmer #04890 Cordless Envy\u00ae Li Clipper #73000 Adjustable Blade Clippers* Detachable Blade Clipper* Shaving* Trimmers* *These tools were used in the Custom Cuts section, but you could use another comparable Andis tool to achieve the same look. For example, you could use the new Cordless T-Outliner Li trimmer instead of the original T-Outliner trimmer. \f",
        "51": "43 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 Hi-Top The Disconnect Sculptured Hi-Top Buzz Cut Fauxhawk Sunburst 43 \f",
        "52": "44 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Start fading the sides and back with an Andis adjustable blade clipper and a #0 attachment comb with the blade closed. Work up towards the parietal ridge. Remove the attachment comb and keep the blade closed. Cut using the clipper-over-comb technique to build up the shape through the sides towards the top. Continue cutting clipper-over- comb around the front to build up the hi-top shape. 1 2 3 Hi-Top \f",
        "53": "45 Next, switch to an Andis detachable blade clipper and a #000 blade. Use the free-hand cutting technique to shape the top. Use your mirror often to check for balance. Switch to your adjustable blade clipper with a #1 attachment comb to clean up any facial hair. Using your Andis T-blade trimmer, line up the perimeter, starting at the center front of the hairline and working down back over the ear and through to the nape. 4 5 6 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "54": "46 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use a comb to pick out the hair and apply product if necessary to keep it upright. Then, using an Andis detachable blade clipper with the #1-1\/2 blade, create a base line starting from the left temple up to the middle back of the occipital bone. Work your way around from the left side to the right side. Switch to a #1A blade and continue taking down the length, blending up into the previously cut section using quick c-stroke motions around the head. Apply the #3-1\/2 blade and start shaping the foundation for the hi-top. Cut above the previously cut section at the parietal ridge to begin sculpting the sides. Work from the center back towards the front. 1 2 3 Sculptured Hi-Top \f",
        "55": "47 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 Attach a #1-1\/2 blade and continue to polish the fade towards the base line over the previously cut section. Start at the center back and continue to either side. Now use a #2 blade and blend between the two sections cut with the #1-1\/2 and #3-1\/2 blades. Here we used an UltraEdge\u00ae blade - you can work with either UltraEdge or CeramicEdge\u00ae blades for your detachable blade clipper, but for longer use, CeramicEdge blades will stay cooler longer. Switch to a #2 blade and start to create the buildup beginning at the center of the front hairline, working your way to the left side and then repeat from the center towards the right side. 4 5 6 \f",
        "56": "48 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to create your line-up around the perimeter. Start at the temple and continue around the front and back hairlines. Make sure to include the beard area and finish by dry shaving the cheek area. Repeat on the opposite side. Begin sculpting the top with a detachable blade clipper with the #000 blade. First, remove some of the bulk by cutting front to back. Then, create the curved guide for the hard part by slightly cutting into the hair from the front, angling as desired towards the back. Use your T-blade trimmer and continue defining the hard part from the front towards the back. Use the corner of the blade to clean out the hard part as needed. 7 8 9 Sculptured Hi-Top \f",
        "57": "49 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 With the hard part established, use the detachable blade clipper and the #000 blade to continue freehand sculpting the top. Start on the left side, working from the back towards the front to create a smooth top and side. Use a comb to lift the hair as needed and check for balance. Move to the right side and use the same process to cut from the back towards the front. Leave the length on this side longer than the other. Keep checking your lines and angles throughout. Finish by using the detachable blade clipper with the #000 blade to define the hard part. Clip from the back towards the front for the final sculpting. Use the corner of the blade for better control. 10 11 12 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "58": "50 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis T-blade trimmer and start at the center point on the left side of the nape to create the \u201cV\u201d shape. Then repeat on the right. Use an Andis adjustable fade blade clipper with the blade open to create the curve starting at the nape working up around the ear. Repeat on the opposite side, checking for balance. Close the blade halfway and work slightly lower, blending up into the previously cut area. 1 2 3 Fauxhawk Sunburst \f",
        "59": "51 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 Close the blade and use the #3 attachment comb working from the temple up to the parietal ridge. Switch to the #2 attachment comb and cut slightly lower on the head to fade. Then, cut from the parietal ridge down towards the back, working with the grain. 4 5 6 \f",
        "60": "52 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use the #1 attachment comb with the blade closed and cut with the grain from the front to the back. Open the blade and repeat this process slightly lower. Close the blade, and with a #0 attachment comb, cut slightly lower down the side of the head. Continue fading moving \u00bd\u201d lower with each pass and closing the blade more each time. At the back of the head remove the attachment comb and cut up to the \u201cV\u201d with the blade slightly open to create the sharp line. 7 8 9 Fauxhawk Sunburst \f",
        "61": "53 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 Use the ProFoil Shaver at the back for an ultra-smooth finish. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to line up the front hairline starting at the center and working towards each side, checking for balance. Use an Andis detachable blade clipper to sculpt the shape through the top of the head, eliminating any stray hairs. Apply product and style to finish. 10 11 12 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "62": "54 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae The Disconnect Clip the top up from the bottom; just above the parietal ridge. Using an Andis adjustable blade clipper and a #1 attachment comb with the blade closed, cut up to the parietal ridge using long, c-stroke motions. Switch to the #0 attachment comb and cut slightly lower, blending up into the previously cut area. Remove the attachment comb, and open the blade. Continue cutting with long c-stroke motions slightly lower on the head. 1 2 3 \f",
        "63": "55 Close the blade and cut around the bottom inch of the perimeter. Wet the top and use the #2 attachment comb to blend the length through the parietal ridge and crown. Comb the top hair in the direction of the finished style. Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to create a hard part. Work from the recession point back towards behind the ear using a tap and wiggle motion. 4 5 6 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 \f",
        "64": "56 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Continue lining up around the perimeter, working back down around the nape. Switch to an adjustable blade clipper with the blade closed and use the clipper-over-finger technique to cut your center top guide. Comb the hair straight up off the head and cut back to the crown, then forward to the front hairline. The top front will remain completely disconnected from the bottom. 7 8 9 The Disconnect Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com \f",
        "65": "57 SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 \f",
        "66": "58 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae Use an Andis adjustable blade clipper with a #1 attachment comb and the blade closed. Begin by cutting with the grain at the crown. Note that when there is a whorl, you may need to change the cutting direction. Switch to a #0 attachment comb to take the length slightly shorter at the top of the head; cut with the grain. Continue cutting up the sides and back of the head. Open the blade and use a #1 attachment comb to even out the length. 1 2 3 Buzz Cut \f",
        "67": "59 Use an Andis T-blade trimmer to line up the perimeter starting at the sideburn and continuing around the back of the neck to the opposite side. 4 Watch how-to videos at: master-barberschool.com SECTION 3 CUSTOM 3 \f",
        "68": "60 Clipper Cutting 301 by Andis\u00ae \f",
        "69": "Get the latest on education from Andis! To receive information about future clipper education programs and special offers on Andis products, register at: master-barberschool.com today. At Andis, we care about education as much as you do! Andis offers focused, on-site technical presentations (120 min.) for groups of 20 or more taught by some of the industry\u2019s top instructors. Our educational modules are ideal for your fast-paced work schedules and are designed to be versatile to meet the needs of your organization. Education modules can be taken one at a time, combined, or taken all together depending on your needs. Students and professionals alike will be given the skills and confidence to advance their clipper cutting. Want to learn more? Contact: Education Department [email protected] \f",
        "70": "1.800.558.9441 andis.com \u00a92018 Andis Company, Sturtevant, WI USA Form #2017-816 Rev. A USD $9900 With this new book, Clipper Cutting 301: A guide for cutting highly-textured hair, Andis provides you with the knowledge, practical application and tips you need in order to deliver any style, each as unique as your client. Showcasing 12 different fades and custom cuts, this book will help prepare you for success through cutting and styling with Andis professional clippers and trimmers. \f"
    }